12 November 2003

For years it was a tangible symbol of Polish socialism. Today, Party House, located at the corner of Jerozolimskie Avenue and Nowy Świat Street, lost much of its previous splendor and the mythic stature. Today the interiors house institutions of the capitalist, market-based economy, which are far removed from socialism.

Many legends were spread regarding the building. There were rumors about hidden rooms, armored offices which would be safe even during a nuclear attack, or a secret passage linking the Party House and the Palace of Culture and Science as well as, further on, with the Central Train Station.

In the 1950s people used to send greeting cards featuring a picture of the building. Party House, also known as the White House, was impressive thanks to its monumental structure. It evoked curiosity, envy and hatred. The most frequently published photo in 1989 featured Party House in the background, the sign "no left turn" in the foreground and a crowd of demonstrators. In 1948 the Tigers, a team of architects, won a competition for the design of Party House. It was erected within four years with raw materials unavailable in Poland-the sandstone was imported from Italy. At home, contributions-not exactly voluntary-were collected under the motto "Let's build a common home." But the building looked impressive only from outside. The interiors reflected the gloomy reality of the times. The pipes were wrapped in paper insulation, the telephone system dated back to 1936. Under communist rule, health inspectors didn't dare to enter the dining room; when they finally did, they were terrified. They found dirty pots and pans, a burnt-out stove and a host of insects. "Politburo members would have lunch separately but sometimes, the First Secretary used to drop in to show he did not despise the rank-and-file," one Party House resident recalls.

Many legends were spread regarding the building. There were rumors about hidden rooms, armored offices which would be safe even during a nuclear attack, or a secret passage linking the Party House and the Palace of Culture and Science as well as, further on, with the Central Train Station. No secret passages have been found, but one passage did exist for certain-linking the building with a tunnel at Warszawa Powiśle station (so the first secretary could board the luxury train directly). It was closed after a gas explosion in Rotunda building. When the system collapsed, the Party House fell into ruin-most of the furniture, pictures and carpets were stolen.

Since 1991 the Party House has been administered by Centrum Bankowo-Finansowe banking and financial center which, from 1992 to 2001, made part of its space available to the Warsaw Stock Exchange; 80 percent of gross profit from the lease was contributed to the construction of the new Warsaw University Library. When the stock exchange moved to a new building in Książęca Street, the former Politburo building became the premises of several large companies and over 30 broker's offices. The residents appreciate the thick walls, peace and quiet and free parking. "My boss is fascinated with the place, although he would never admit it. It's enough to look at his face when he strolls along the corridors," one bank employee said.

Last summer the idea was voiced to include Party House in the historic monument register. The idea triggered off a storm. Province monument conservator Maria Brukalska stated the building "was of no value whatsoever." Other researchers, including Dr. Waldemar Baraniewski from Warsaw University's Art History Institute, said that the "former Party House was part of the classicist architecture of the 1930s, with distinct influence from August Perret. The building should be definitely entered in the register of Warsaw monuments."

Maciej Mroczek